Roadtrip in Quebec Maritime: 10 days on the Whale Route
I’m back with another adventure for you, and this time I’m taking you on a trip to Canada for a wonderful road trip. Maritime Quebec. In this article I present you all the steps of the trip, my tips, my favorites and my good plans!
I started the journey by following the North Coast on the famous Route 138, also known as the Whale Route, and I finished the trip in the region of Bas Saint Laurent. That was nearly 2,000 kilometers in 10 days…
In other words, this road trip was quite intense! I can only advise you to take more time by extending the length of your stay or by shortening the length of the itinerary!
Before leaving, I didn’t really know what to expect; I had done little research on the destination in order to have some surprises on the spot. And that didn’t disappoint… Anyway, it was a memorable trip where many visual highlights (because the landscapes are fabulous) and wonderful encounters were combined. In fact, this last point is probably what most struck me… Yes, (you others!) Quebecers are a rare breed of kindness; they are warm, welcoming, and kind. And that’s so pleasant!
In this new article, I will list the different stages of my 10-day road trip in maritime Quebec.
Tadoussac: the observation of whales
The grand arrival in Tadoussac
The first step of this beautiful journey, and perhaps even the most memorable one! In fact, it all began a little before Tadoussac because I left from the Quebec airport and the road is fantastic, especially between Saint Siméon and Tadoussac, passing by Baie-Sainte-Catherine.
Take the time to stop and explore the small trails; it’s really worth it! On either side of Route 138 there are ponds around which you can see beautiful wooden houses… I’m happy I made it to Quebec!
I arrived by ferry (the Quebec term for ferry) that leads to Tadoussac at the end of the day and I had a spectacular sunset. I was ecstatic! I couldn’t have started this maritime road trip in Quebec better…
For your information, the crossing of the Saguenay River is free. The ferry operates 24/7 and departures are approximately every 20 minutes. The crossing takes 10 minutes.
The observation of whales
Before leaving to observe the whales in the sea, it is interesting to make a preliminary visit to the CIMM (Centre d’interprétation des mammifères marins), an opportunity to learn a lot about the mammals of the Saguenay-Saint Laurent marine park. The visit is explained by biologists and passionate naturalists who answer all questions (from the youngest to the oldest). A little tip for Méduline, who explained a lot to me!
There are several ways to observe the whales in the Tadoussac region: by boat, zodiac, sea kayak, or from the shores of the Saint Laurent River.
Due to the limited time available, I preferred to maximize the chances of seeing whales that day and chose the zodiac tour, thinking that I would have the opportunity to go kayaking later in the trip (mistake… no kayaking due to bad weather).
After 30 minutes of crossing, the zodiac slowed down, and then the guide turned off the engine. We waited for a few minutes and suddenly we heard the breath of a humpback whale rising to the surface and diving back down again! Words are not enough to describe the experience… It is simply fabulous and quite moving. A little later, I spotted a family of belugas far away, also rising to the surface.
I had doubts about the tourist/ethical approach to the activity, but in the end the guide explained to us that we had to stay at a good distance from the whales to avoid disturbing them. Indeed, the Saguenay – Saint Laurent marine park is a protected area and the tour agencies are members of the Société des Parcs Nationaux du Québec. The Eco-Whale Alliance
Practical information:
2.30-hour sea trip conducted with AML Cruises from Tadoussac
Price: about 80$ / person
Remember to book in advance because there are many requests!
Take an airtight bag to protect your photo equipment or phone because if the weather isn’t good, you’ll likely get soaked.
The temperature drops by at least 10°C once you’re out at sea, so bring warm clothes!
I slept at the Hotel Tadoussac, a historic establishment created in 1864, at the beginning of tourism in the region. The hotel is known for its beautiful architecture with its white facade and red roof. The bedding is comfortable, the service is excellent, and the location is perfect (next to the pedestrian promenade of Tadoussac), however I was not impressed by the somewhat outdated decor that deserves a little freshening up)
Sacré-Coeur and the Saguenay fjord
I left Tadoussac to go 30 km further, in the vicinity of the city of Sacré Cœur, near the Saguenay fjord.
I made a detour to Five-star farm, an immense site open all year round, run by Yannick and his family (adorable). There are many activities on site, such as encounters with the farm animals (ideal for families with children), but also hiking, kayaking in the Saguenay fjord, quad or horseback riding, etc… The 5-star Farm also offers accommodation in chalets on the edge of the fjord with breathtaking views!
My «top accommodation choice» of the stay: Canopée Lit!
That night I slept in a treehouse in the middle of the forest and there was even a large skylight on the roof so I could see the starry sky from my bed! An experience to be had at least once in Quebec. Here, it’s all calm and serenity… Well… Once night falls, you can hear the sounds of the forest, but they’re quite ear-splitting in the end! For your information Canopée Bed It also offers accommodation in transparent bubbles, which are also located in the middle of the forest.
Information
Towels, bedding and breakfast are included.
There is a small terrace where you can enjoy the view of the forest
Even though all the openings of the cabin are protected with mosquito nets, I recommend you to bring your own anti-mosquito repellent to enjoy the terrace.
The dry toilets and the shower are located 5 meters from the cabin.
There is no outlet to charge your electronic equipment. The solar panels are only used to provide electricity for light and heating (if needed).
Cabin price: approx. 170$ / night (2 people max)
I only stayed 24 hours in the Saguenay fjord region, when at least 3 days would be needed to really get to enjoy it!
Whale watching in Cap-de-Bon-Désir
I head back up the North Coast towards Pointe-aux-Outardes, but first I make a stop at Interpretation and observation center in Cap-de-Bon-Désir. This is the ideal place to observe whales a few dozen meters from the shore, whether the tide is high or low! To be able to observe the whales, you need to take your time and stay there for at least a few hours. Unfortunately for me, I didn’t see any that day. I recommend you go there at the end of the day and why not have a picnic there 🙂
At the entrance of the site there is a beautiful lighthouse and the former caretaker’s house has been transformed into a small exhibition room where you can find a lot of information about marine mammals and the history of the site.
Fun fact : Parcs Canada (which manages this website in particular) has installed very comfortable red chairs in all of its parks, facing the most beautiful places, for enjoying the view.
Information
Site open from June 15 to October 14
Price: 8$ / adult
The Pointe-aux-Outardes Nature Park
170km later, and after having observed magnificent landscapes along the way, here I am at the Nature Park, Welcomed by Denis (the director) and Wabush (Inuit guide). This protected natural site includes many distinct ecosystems: the beach, the dunes, the boreal forest, the salt marshes, etc…
In short, I was blown away by the 2.5km long marked trail alone! I had the opportunity to make this discovery at the end of the day, taking advantage of fantastic light and a beautiful sunset.
On site, the guides provide a wealth of information about the wildlife (nearly 250 species of birds) and the very diverse flora. Throughout the route there are observation points from which one can enjoy beautiful panoramic views.
Wabush, for his part, immerses visitors in the history and culture of the Inuit people by explaining, among other things, the ancestral way of life (hunting, fishing, trapping, cooking, legends, and spirituality). I had the opportunity to have a «dinner» with him and we had a wonderful evening!
The Parc Nature also offers unusual and beautifully decorated accommodations! Since bird watching is one of the highlights of the Parc Nature, the accommodations have been designed around this theme.
So I slept that night in a giant cage!
The Blue Merle. It is a large wooden cabin on two levels with a living area downstairs with a terrace (protected by a mosquito net), a small living room, a kitchen, and upstairs a giant wooden nest in the center of which is the bed.
Information
Accommodation rate: 155$ / night (5 people max)
Bedding not provided. Renting a sleeping bag 15$ / night. Toilets outside the nest.
Available between 1 May and 15 September
Nature Park access fee: 9.50$ / adult
Bay Comeau
Before taking the 5-hour drive to Havre Saint Pierre, I made a quick stop at microbrewery Saint Pancrace from Baie Comeau. This beer is very well known throughout the entire North Coast, as each variety refers to a particularity/legend of the region.
A must-try IPA that I hope to find one day in a wine shop in France 🙂 Sinueuse is a reference to the nickname of Route 389 that was designed to evoke the curves of a woman and thus offer some comfort to truckers…
And by the way, I assure you, I just had a little taste of it since I had to drive afterwards! By the way, here are some photos of the scenery I passed along the road.
Le Havre-Saint-Pierre: discovery of the Mingan Islands archipelago
I arrived late that evening in Havre-Saint-Pierre… The drive by car was fabulous… I passed through Pointe-Des-Monts, Baie-Trinité and Rivière-au-Tonnerre, not forgetting all the numerous stops I made along the way!
Yes, in Quebec you can easily stop every 10-15 minutes to enjoy the views! So when I announce a travel time, I already know that I’ll add an extra 1.5 hours to the total, counting all those quick stops.
Anyway! I arrived in Havre Saint Pierre around 20:30 and before putting my bags in the town motel, I went to have «supper» at the restaurant At Julie's.
On the menu: a plate of crab and lobster! A delight… And yes, you really have to savor the local specialties! Since I’m from Brittany, I can only endorse all the regional specialties… EXCEPT ONE! I hated the chicoutai tart (a bay that grows in the Nordic countries), but apparently here the Native Americans are crazy about it…
In any case, the restaurant was packed; it’s a real institution here! A must-see if you’re visiting Havre Saint Pierre 🙂
The next day I set off from Havre Saint Pierre to discover the islands of the Mingan archipelago, more specifically the island of Quarry and the island of Niapiskau, known for their erosion monoliths. The views are certainly magnificent and you feel like you’re on another planet at times.
The excursion lasts 3:45 with free time on each island to learn more about these breathtaking natural sculptures in the company of a Parks Canada guide. For more information, visit the Parks Canada website. Mingan Archipelago National Park Reserve
Good deal
It is possible to camping on Quarry Island by bringing their own equipment or renting small wooden bungalows (semi-rigid tents, also called tent-like camping equipment oTENTik)
Price: 120$ / night – fire permit 9$ / night – booking fee 11$ online
Natashquan: the end of the world!
Two hours down the road later, here I am, almost at the end of Route 138 in Natashquan. During the journey I could see the scenery changing to make way for much more wild landscapes. In fact, I had to pass three cars in two hours…
Natashquan… It’s a charming little village with its «galets», old storage buildings that are also called fishermen’s hangars. I learned that Natashquan has been connected to the road network only since 1996!
Yes, here you really feel like you’re at the end of the world… You can stroll along the Saint Laurent, enjoy the wild rivers in the area, and go hiking on the hiking trails in the taiga. I also recommend visiting the Inuit reserve located 4km north of Natashquan.
It’s a long way to get here, but it’s really worth it: guaranteed disconnection.
Accommodation
Auberge The Port of Attache : friendly welcome (as usual in Quebec), small room with a view of the sea, comfortable bedding.
Price: less than 100$ / night
Sept-Îles
Natashquan was the northernmost stop on the road trip in maritime Quebec. On the way back, I made a stop in Sept Îles, but unfortunately the weather wasn’t on my side! As a result, I wasn’t able to visit the archipelago of Sept Îles, which seems fabulous according to what I’ve read (the possibility of camping there, observing the local flora and fauna, hiking, etc.).
Visit the link for more information about the archipelago of the Seven Islands
Despite the rain, I went to visit The Old Post Office in Sept-Îles, a remarkable tourist site that provides many information about the history of the region as well as about the coexistence between the Innuit and Euro-Canadian cultures. A must-see if you are passing through Sept Îles.
Another must-try in Sept-Îles: eat on the go at the restaurant Le Casse-Croûte du Pêcheur! The decor is gorgeous and quite original (giant lobster cage). I highly recommend the crab sandwich… A delight, in its simplest form!
Before leaving Sept-Îles, I made a stop at the microbrewery La Compagnie, a place where you can enjoy a friendly, warm atmosphere and a wide variety of local beers, some of which have unusual flavors (smoke, etc…). Once again, my favorite is the IPA, my absolute favorite!
There it is, it’s already time to return my rental car; I’m headed to the airport in Sept-Îles to get to Mont-Joli, on the other side of the Saint Laurent river.
Information
Accommodation at the Château Arnaud hotel: contemporary decor and design, spacious room, comfortable king size bed and views of the harbor. A must!
Another visit: the Shaputuan museum to discover the Inuit culture.
Small plane flight (coucou type) Sept-Îles / Mont-Joli operated by the airline Pascan Aviation
The Bic National Park
For these last two days of the maritime Quebec roadtrip, I went to the Bas-Saint-Laurent region to discover Bic National Park. This is a coastal marine park renowned for its unique wildlife and flora, but also for its capes, headlands, bays, and cliffs. There are nearly 25km of hiking trails, 15km of bike paths, and many viewpoints to enjoy fabulous views.
You can observe seals from many viewpoints in the national park, but I recommend going kayaking to meet them! An unprecedented, fun experience that allows you to observe the Bic National Park from a new angle. I highly recommend the kayaking trip with guide Gabriel from the company. Adventures Archipelago, He is great, fun-loving and provides many practical information about the sites visited!
Information
Outing fee 2h30 by sea kayak: 72$ / adult
Bic National Park open all year round. Entrance fee: 9$ / adult
Accommodations
Auberge du Mange Grenouille Excellent restaurant, refined and local cuisine. The setting is remarkable with a beautiful colorful building, terraces on several levels, a fountain and a beautiful view of the bay below. A minor drawback is the decor, which is a bit kitschy in my opinion, and the lack of light in the room.
Domaine Floravie : Unusual, eco-friendly, and mobile accommodations located on the banks of the Saint Laurent river! Domaine Floravie has 7 «tiny houses» in different colors, all equipped with a shower, a dry toilet, a small kitchen area, a double bed in the mezzanine, and a sofa bed downstairs. The site is open from May 11 to October 28.
This trip was carried out in close collaboration with Le Maritime Quebec, Tourism North Coast, Tourism in Bas-Saint-Laurent and the airline Air Transat. The content of this article only reflects my opinion; I maintain complete freedom in my statements, and my recommendations are always objective.
Leave a Reply