6 days exploring Terengganu in Malaysia

I had had a very pleasant taste of Malaysia during a stopover in Kuala Lumpur 2 years ago and I had promised myself to return to discover this country that all my relatives had told me about… That happened a month ago when I had the chance to be invited by Gaya Travel Magazine and Tourism in Terengganu at a rather atypical event: the squid jigging festival, Translate «The fishing festival of the seahorse», which took place this year for its second edition from June 2 to 7, 2015! More than 120 bloggers and media from all over the world were welcomed in the province of Terengganu to experience this local event that animates the region for a few days. A total immersion with the locals and more specifically the fishermen who let us experience their daily lives, their passion, their skills, with passion and generosity. What beautiful memories...

6 days is far too short to get away from it all and really understand a region. Can you tell me? Think again, because I felt like I had been away for a month… It’s crazy how I feel, and I’m sure it’s happened to you before. 

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Being in 120 people in this part of the world is not nothing… I was worried about that «organized» side of the trip, and well, that didn’t miss a thing… I have to admit that the program was meticulous and we hardly had any free time to move around by ourselves and discover the region in a different way, at our own pace… But we were also 120 passionate travelers and believe me that after only a few hours the atmosphere was great and everyone was friendly! We could almost call it the «holiday colony syndrome»! 

These 6 days of travel were punctuated by the discovery of the region in all its forms: the fishing festival of course, but also the local cuisine, the inhabitants, the religion, the culture, the heritage and nature. All these assets make this unique country beautiful. 
Here are some reasons to visit Terengganu in Malaysia, a region still little visited by tourists, yet 100% authentic and charming for all travelers who set out to discover it.

Warm, smiling, and welcoming locals

It is important for me to address this point first because it really is what has most struck me. At one point I even wondered if it was because we were here as part of the promotion of the local festival, but no! Even when we were away from the crowd, venturing into the far reaches of the fishing villages or the local market with my friend Bruno de, Your World Tour, We really enjoyed the kindness of the locals, who were always ready to share their good mood and sympathy with us. Here, everything is just smiles, simplicity, and sharing… And that’s magical in my eyes!

Read the article again: Portraits and smiles from Terengganu in Malaysia

The island of Pulau Redang 

Another great surprise for this paradise island… I can’t even begin to describe it; it was pure bliss: lush vegetation, large beaches with fine sand covered with coconut palms, and a crystal-clear turquoise sea. It’s a real postcard-perfect setting. The island is located about 1.3 hours by boat from Jetty Terengganu and 50 minutes from Merang.
Since the beach is oriented towards the east, don’t miss the opportunity to wake up at 6:15 AM to watch one of the most magical sunrises… For me, it was definitely the most spectacular I’ve ever seen! The island has 5 resorts scattered along the beach and you can find accommodations for every budget. You can engage in many activities such as snorkeling or scuba diving to discover the World War II wrecks that lie around the island. For hiking enthusiasts, there are many trails that traverse the lush jungle of the island.

If you want to be left alone a little more, in peace, I also recommend the island of Pulau Kapas.

 

The island of Pulau Kapas

Another island as spectacular as Pulau Redang, but a little less frequented by tourists. Bliss! It is 30 minutes by boat from the Marang jetty and it will cost you about 10 euros for a round trip. You can take the bus or taxi from Terengganu in about 45 minutes.

You can enjoy Pulau Kapas island during the day as we did, spending the night in a wooden bungalow on the beach for 15€ (breakfast included). The beaches are beautiful, the surroundings are lush, and you feel completely alone in the world! Perfect for relaxing and taking in the sights and sounds… You can rent kayaks on site to tour the island, as well as snorkeling gear to enjoy the underwater world.

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The Chinatown district in Kuala Terengganu

It is in the historic district of Chinatown in the heart of Kuala Terengganu that you can immerse yourself in the city’s new artistic, cultural and alternative trends. I didn’t expect to find myself in an alternative neighborhood like those in Willamsburg in New York, Kreuzberg in Berlin or Shoreditch in London! Well, you shouldn’t compare what isn’t comparable; here, the architecture of traditional buildings dates back to the 19th century, with the arrival of Chinese migrants, and some temples are indeed remarkable. Today, Chinatown is Kuala Terengganu’s main tourist attraction.

Don’t miss a stroll there in the evening or on holidays; there are many stalls to enjoy local specialties and the atmosphere is great. Luckily, we were there at the time of the Terengganu Perenakan Festival, which takes place every year in Chinatown from June 5 to 10. This event celebrates the heritage of Peranakan culture, which is derived from the Sino-Malay mix. 5 days of traditional festivities, many activities, and close to 100,000 visitors throughout the festival.

On both sides of Kampung China Street, there are several perpendicular alleys where beautiful artistic installations and street art creations can be found. It’s a good idea to wander around them!

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Negeri Terengganu Museum

A must-see if you are passing through the region, an opportunity to discover and understand more about the history of the Terengganu region, its culture, identity and traditions. Before entering the Negiri Museum, take the time to admire the architecture of this beautiful, recently restored museum, and stroll around the surroundings; the setting is lush and very beautiful. Considered one of the largest museums in Southeast Asia, the Muziume Negeri covers an area of nearly 75,000 m² and consists of 4 buildings all connected to each other by bridges. It features different thematic areas such as natural sciences, the history of the arrival of Islam, textiles with the ancient traditional costumes, and the royal gallery. The admission fee is 15 RM (3.30€) for adults and 10 RM (2.20€) for children.

The Crystal Mosque

The Crystal Mosque of Kuala Terengganu is truly unique in its kind, and is considered one of the most amazing and beautiful mosques in the world. Composed of crystal, glass, and steel, this mosque was built in two years and was inaugurated in February 2008. It is located in Taman Tamadun Islam (Islamic Heritage Park), on the island of Man Wan. It has 4 minarets, covers an area of more than 2100 m², and can accommodate more than 700 people. You can visit it during the day, for example by taking a small cruise on the river to admire it from all angles (about 15RM); you will be as surprised as I are by the beauty of the building when the sun reflects off the glass and crystal walls. But I also recommend and especially advise you to visit it at night; the spectacle is impressive. I had the opportunity to enter the interior of the Crystal Mosque, and it seems to be significantly smaller than it is from the outside. In its center there is a huge crystal chandelier. In the Islamic Heritage Park, there are also miniature replicas of the most beautiful mosques in the world.

Rich and varied street food

As you all know, a visit to a country or region also involves discovering its culinary specialties, and there’s nothing like visiting the food market (the Pasar Payang market in Kuala Terengganu) or the many take-out stands to savor the best of the region! The cuisine draws from a mix of local and Chinese specialties. Among the dishes are those made with poultry (halal), but also fish and seafood (seiche, squid, etc.), fried with a coating or marinated in coconut juice, seasoned with spices and accompanied by a wide variety of vegetables and rice. There are also delicious desserts, but my favorites are the «Kuih», a kind of savory bites made from rice, and the «Teh C Peng Special», a kind of milkshake with several layers and composed of concentrated milk, black tea, syrup, herb jelly with shaved ice.

The Squid Jigging Festival

Every year the Squid Jigging festival takes place off the coast of Terengganu province, in the middle of the South China Sea. This is a local event of great importance that celebrates the skills of the fishermen in the area. Squid fishing is practiced in a very special way that comes from ancestral traditions. We went on two trips to the open sea with local fishermen to discover and learn this very special method. Basically, you have to stretch several meters of fishing line out to the sea until the hook touches the bottom. Then you have to be patient and make up and down movements in height by pulling on the line to try to catch a squid. Even though the wait is long before catching even a few of them, we enjoy the warm atmosphere aboard the traditional boats; the kind and pleasant fishermen make us experience their daily lives, their passion, tell their stories, and we also enjoy the magical sunset over the South China Sea. The adventure continues even in the middle of the night; the fishermen install suspended lamps to attract the squid. During the festival there were about a dozen boats in the sea, spaced about a hundred meters apart, and the atmosphere was unique… As soon as one of the participants had a catch, we could hear the screams of joy in the middle of the night!

I have an unforgettable memory of this unique experience; this atypical event really left a mark on me!

 

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The village of Mangkuk in Setiu

We set off to visit Mangkuk, a charming little fishing village located in the Setiu province, about sixty kilometers north of Kuala Terengganu. It feels like you’ve been cut off from the world; everything is far away; the setting is even more authentic, more wild, untouched by tourism; and the few families who live in the village are welcoming, and passersby are curious and friendly.

We participated in the shellfish harvesting in the river in front of the village, a very fun moment where we were all in Bermuda shorts and rolled up trousers trying to fill our buckets! Although we ended up with only about a dozen shells each; multiplied by the hundred or so participants, we had plenty to feast on that evening around the barbecue.

We stayed in Mangkuk only for one afternoon, but if I have the opportunity to go back there with Capucine, I think we’ll stay for 2 days to enjoy the scenery and the people even more.

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Lake Kenyir and its lush jungle

In the heart of the province of Terengganu lies one of the oldest tropical forests in the world and also Lake Kenyir, the largest artificial lake in South Asia, which has nearly 340 islands. There is a great variety of unique plants and flowers that grow only in this region of the world, and the scenery is truly wonderful. A true garden of Eden and a haven of peace for nature lovers. There are many activities around the lake, such as hiking, fishing, canoeing, etc… There is even a small water park where you can have fun with the family for an afternoon, to the delight of both young and old.

ATTENTION, FORBIDDEN!

I strongly advise you not to visit the Kenyir Elephant Village: it's a real scandal!

We were in this so-called elephant protection center where I thought we could observe them from a distance, free in their natural habitat… WHAT A DISAPPOINTMENT!
Welcome to the circus… As soon as I arrived, I had serious doubts when I saw this huge parking lot that looked like those in shopping malls. This was followed by a welcome from the manager, a rather vulgar character who seems to have dollars in his eyes rather than love for these elephants… It’s just a paved path, an artificial decor, souvenir shops… In short, it’s just the beginning and I’m thinking that the visit will be different and maybe up to my expectations… And here comes the drama…
As I walk from one viewpoint to another, crossing monkey bridges, I observe below electric fences and a first elephant that is tied to its paw by a large chain and is pacing (stressed, anxious).
The visit continues and sadness overwhelms me, and it continues until the final entertainment: a circus! We arrive in concrete stands and the manager who welcomed us transforms into a DJ who plays very loud music to warm up the audience. The ideal for the comfort and well-being of the elephants!! Next comes a half hour of horrible show where the trained elephants entertain the audience by performing acrobatics and other sad fantasies to watch. To conclude, the elephants water the audience with their trunk… A disastrous show at Seaworld or Marineland… To conclude, a photo session with the elephants where everyone takes their own crappy selfie…

Ultimately, it’s a huge disappointment; it’s not a sanctuary of protection but a tourist factory where the elephants live in deplorable conditions!

I still have very pleasant memories of this trip to Terengganu and I hope that I will soon have the opportunity to return there for a holiday with Capucine, taking more time to discover the wonders of Malaysia. The country can be explored by taking a bus tour, which is a good value for money option; otherwise there is the possibility of traveling from one city to another by taxi, train, car-stop, or even by plane for the longest distances. For those who are a bit more reluctant, there is also the option of exploring Malaysia with specialized tour operators like Terres d’Aventure which offers quality «nature» stays.